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Painting can begin once you have finished with your preparation. It’s time to get down to the business of protecting & making your home look good again!
Refrain from working when temperature is below 50° F and avoid working in threatening weather as a shower can ruin a fresh coatings.
Solvent-thinned paints should not be applied over damp surfaces. This will lead to blistering and peeling. Prior to starting make sure to have enough to complete an entire section and always mix thoroughly and stir before and during use.
Begin on the side of the house that will remain in the shade until you have finished. Direct sun causes rapid drying, interferes with the leveling qualities and will produce lap marks, particularly with latex. Dry blisters will develop with oil-based paints, especially with dark colors, if the sun (or strong wind) causes the surface to dry too rapidly.
Work from the top down and if you did not remove the gutters, do them first.All of the trim boards are done last just like a picture frame. Shutters can be removed, painted, and re-hung when the job is completed.
Coat window sash and door panels first, and then the window frames, sills and door trim. Any paint on the putty line of the window will serve to protect the puttied surface from water, try to overlap onto the glass 1/16" - 1/8" or so. Excess can be scraped off with a razor blade to create a clean edge.
A vertical technique is appropriate for shingled surfaces. The shingles provide natural breaking points, so painting in vertical sections is convenient.
On horizontal siding, work from side to side beginning at the top. Minimize lap marks by painting four to five boards across the house until completed.
On clapboard siding, the first surface to do is the area where two boards overlap. Use the narrow side of the brush and force it up under the lap.
Coat as much length of board as you can comfortably reach, then flip to the wider portion of the brush and coat the surface of the board.
When loading your brush, immerse the first 1/3 of the bristles into the materials and tap the brush lightly side-to-side against the inside of the can. Do not drag the bristles across the lip of the can; this will rob your brush of half its carrying capacity.
When applying with a brush, use long, smooth strokes. Oil-base should be brushed back and forth several times for a well spread, even coat.
If it gathers along the horizontal edge of the clapboard, it is being applied too heavily or is not being adequately brushed out. Latex does not require much brushing as these dry quickly, and excessive brushing will cut deep brush marks permanently into the film.
When using latex, apply it generously, give it one or two back strokes and leave it to dry.
Paint will build up on the heel of the brush, where the bristles meet the ferrule. To eliminate this excess, occasionally drag the heel of the brush over the lip of the can.
Using a roller:
Roller application works well for porous surfaces such as masonry and stucco. Dip the roller in the 5 gallon bucket and roll it up and down on the grid to remove excess. If it drips when picked up, it is overloaded. Screw on a threaded pole 4' or so and you can easily roll out walls. A roller is ideal for flat surfaces, but will not fit into inside corners and will deposit too much on the edges of outer corners. Apply to those areas first, (cutting in) with a brush to ensure good coverage.
Use long even strokes, rolling in different directions to coat the entire surface. Finish off with strokes in one direction.
When painting wood siding, apply the paint with a roller then "lay it off" using a brush, saves a lot of dipping with a brush. Rollers are available in various widths from 3" to 12" and a 1/4" to 1/2" thick nap is good.
If you stop the work for any amount of time, wrap brushes/rollers with plastic to keep paint from hardening or developing a skin. Replace the lids on open cans.
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