Door Repair Tips!


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Generally a wood door has the same wood “jambs” which are attached to the wall framework on each side with a cross piece on top with a threshold installed to the floor at the bottom. They are attached to the jambs on one side by three hinges and the latch and lock are on the other.

There are various sizes and designs. A flush style is faced with hardboard or wood veneer covering the frame. The same for exterior use should have a solid core made from several layers of hardwood or particle board and marked for exterior use. An interior flush style is hollow with a core formed from a frame surrounding an egg crate grill-like structure and are not designed to take moisture and freeze and thaw. The jambs form the sides and head of the frame with the casing acting as trim and as additional support to the walls for the jambs. The stops are square wood strips centered in the vertical jambs that it fits against when closed. The threshold or saddle, is fastened to the sill.


If its too small for its frame, you can install weather-stripping around the stop to seal it from drafts and cold air in the winter and help your air conditioning in the summer. If it is loose and is causing latch problems, you can adjust the latch to hold it tighter or to get the latch to work again. This can be done by marking around the strike plate for a reference point and then moving it in to make it close tighter.

Tip: Once you remove the strike plate, fill the screw holes with toothpicks. Place the toothpicks in the holes and break them off flush so the hole is completely filled solid and flush with the surface. This will allow you to replace the screws easily with out splitting the wood or going back into the same holes! When a latch refuses to work, check either the fit or the lock set striking the plate.

Sticking problem:

Check for a buildup of dirt or paint in the tracks. Sometimes the track can become warped or bent and will need adjusting and or replacement. Also a floor mounted track or guide may be sagging and will also need adjusting or strengthening. Metal sliding units have adjustment points so they can be fitted properly. If the warp is minor, adjust the stop or the hinges to compensate.


First, most hinges have a pin in the center that must be removed. Place a flat screwdriver under the head and gently tap it up with a hammer. This drives the pin up and out of the hinge barrel. Start at the bottom, then middle pin and then remove the top pin. Remove the door from its hinges.For0 re installation, replace the top pin first, then the middle and then the bottom. Drive the pins home only after the hinges are correctly aligned. Lubricate lightly with graphite for extended life and to eliminate squeaks.

If the unit cannot be saved and has to be completely replace, follow these handy steps: Sand any excess wood up to 1/16 inch on the doors top and bottom, up to 1/4 inch on the sides. Saw off any excess that's greater and then sand and finish as needed. Most doors need a minimum of 1/16 inch clearance around the top and sides. Bottom clearance should be at least 1/2 inch, more for floor covering clearance and also for heat and air circulation. Lightly sand the lock side of the door 1/8 inch so the door will clear the jamb as it opens and closes. If it is already beveled, install it so the beveled edge is on the lock side. When installing a hinge, leave at least a 3/4 inch margin between the door edge and the hinge leaf edge. If you're hanging a new unit in an existing frame, you must align it to the existing hinges if possible. Hinges are placed at 7 inches from the top of the door, 11 inches from the bottom of the door and the third centered between the two.

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